Kim Jones at Dior makes menswear more classic than conceptual at Paris fashion week

2024-06-21
Kim Jones at Dior makes menswear more classic than conceptual at Paris fashion week

Dior's Artistic Fusion: Blending Fashion and Ceramics

The Dior menswear designer Kim Jones has long been recognized as a passionate collector of art and rare books, with his homes adorned with pieces by renowned artists like Francis Bacon and Andy Warhol. His latest collection, showcased during Paris Fashion Week, took this artistic affinity to new heights, as he collaborated with the acclaimed South African ceramicist Hylton Nel to create a captivating fusion of fashion and ceramics.

Dior's Artistic Visionary Unveils a Captivating Collaboration

Supersizing Ceramics: A Sculptural Spectacle

For his spring/summer 2025 collection, Jones worked closely with the octogenarian Nel, known for his whimsical plates, pots, figures, and vases featuring satirical text and illustrations. The result was a remarkable display, as the ceramicist's creations were seemingly "put through a supersizing kiln," transforming them into gargantuan sculptures that dotted the catwalk. Guests, including the likes of Brooklyn Beckham, Kate Moss, and Robert Pattinson, eagerly lined up to capture the striking visual spectacle for social media, while Nel himself watched the show from the front row, donning a shirt adorned with the same sweet dog motif that graced the collection's invitation.

Deconstructing Womenswear, Reconstructing Menswear

Jones's approach to this collection was less conceptual than his previous offerings, focusing more on creating a "wardrobe-y" collection. Drawing inspiration from Christian Dior's era, which spanned from 1947 to 1957, the British designer set out to "deconstruct womenswear and put it back together as menswear." This translated into a range of classic menswear staples, including double-breasted blazers, slightly cropped trousers, and sturdy derby-style shoes.

Embracing the Avant-Garde and the Timeless

While the color palette was grounded in the classic, with muddy browns, aubergine, and oatmeal shades, the collection still offered plenty of adventurous pieces. Apron-detail trousers and beautiful knee-length coats, some featuring shimmering embellishments and others with contrasting high-shine patent collars, added a touch of the avant-garde to the collection.

Artisanal Craftsmanship and Couture-like Techniques

Delving into Dior's vast archives, Jones incorporated couture-like techniques throughout the collection. Floral and fauna motifs required an impressive 600 hours of hand beading and hand embroidery, showcasing the brand's commitment to exceptional craftsmanship. These intricate details will undoubtedly be a key selling point for customers, who can expect to pay high price tags for the pieces once they hit the stores.

Hats Off to Collaborative Creativity

Complementing the collection's artistic flair, the models wore cloche hats designed by the milliner Stephen Jones. These hats were created through a collaborative effort, with the crochet skills of the Cape Town-based design studio Earth Age being employed, and the brand's atelier in Paris later applying dangling ceramic beads. This "sense of differing ateliers coming together without hierarchy" exemplified the collection's overarching theme of blending the global with the local, and the homespun with the salon.

Catering to the Discerning Customer

As Jones enters his sixth year at the helm of Dior's menswear division, he has gained a deep understanding of his customer's preferences. Commenting on the continual demand for newness, Jones stated that he now "knows the customer well enough to know what they want. I know when it's time to flip things around and to play with things in a different way." This insight has undoubtedly shaped the collection, which aims to captivate the brand's discerning clientele with its unique fusion of art, craftsmanship, and timeless style.

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