Martine Rose on her disruptive Milan Fashion Week debut: ’you have to do what you believe in’

2024-06-17
Martine Rose on her disruptive Milan Fashion Week debut: ’you have to do what you believe in’

Martine Rose's Unconventional Debut in Milan: Challenging Fashion's Status Quo

Keywords:Martine RoseMilan Fashion WeekUnconventional FashionSubculture InfluenceFashion InnovationOutline:1. Martine Rose's Milan Debut2. Challenging Conventions and Embracing the Unconventional3. Exploring Gender Fluidity and Unexpected Silhouettes4. Connecting with Everyday Characters and Subcultures5. Trusting the Audience's Curiosity and Embracing ChangeMartine Rose, the Jamaican-British designer known for her boundary-pushing approach to fashion, made a bold statement with her first collection presented on Milanese soil. Stepping away from the sartorial polish typically associated with the fashion capital, Rose embraced the cracks and crevices, creating a show that was unapologetically her own.

Challenging the Conventions of Milan Fashion

Martine Rose's debut in Milan was a significant milestone for the London-based brand, as the designer sought to push against the conventions of the fashion industry. Eschewing the polished aesthetic often associated with the city, Rose transformed a former industrial space into a canvas for her unconventional vision, scattering the floor with colorful flyers reminiscent of 1990s rave and party culture.

Embracing the Unconventional

Rose's approach has always been rooted in the margins, drawing inspiration from the outcasts, the kink, the clubland, and the street culture – elements that are often at odds with the sartorial polish of Milan. In her attempt to answer the question, "In the current landscape, which is very saturated, very product-led, very commercial, is there still a way to find fashion dynamic, interesting and relevant?", Rose made bold choices that challenged the status quo.

Exploring Gender Fluidity and Unexpected Silhouettes

Continuing her exploration of gender fluidity, Rose placed men in tailored pencil skirts, creating a "curious, but quite chic" proposal that questioned traditional dressing ideals. Additionally, she repurposed protective motorcycle elbow pads as ladies' bust cups, further blurring the lines between conventional garment functions.

Connecting with Everyday Characters and Subcultures

Rose's collections have always been a reaction to fashion's status quo, rooted in the everyday characters she encounters in day-to-day life. For her Milan debut, she cast a lineup of street-cast Londoners, as well as Milanese models, adorning them with latex noses – a nod to the first feature people notice on another person and the first they change through aesthetic alterations.

Trusting the Audience's Curiosity and Embracing Change

Despite the unconventional nature of her show, Rose expressed confidence in her audience's ability to engage with her vision. "People are not stupid," she affirmed, acknowledging that while relatable elements are important, ultimately, she must stay true to her beliefs. Rose's work has always been a reaction to fashion's status quo, and she trusts that her audience will come along for the journey, driven by their own curiosity and openness to change.

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