Emerging Italian Designers Redefine Workwear Chic at Milan Fashion Week

KEYWORDS:Emerging Italian DesignersMilan Fashion WeekWorkwear ChicOUTLINE:1. Diomene: Damir Doma's Slow Fashion Pursuit2. GR10K: Blending Workwear Expertise with Contemporary Design3. Ascend Beyond: Crafting Mystical Menswear with a Performance EdgeIn the midst of established brands and international designers flocking to Milan Men's Fashion Week, a new generation of homegrown Italian labels is making its mark. These emerging designers are reinterpreting the country's tailoring prowess through a lens of workwear and utility, offering a fresh perspective on Italian style. From Damir Doma's introspective Diomene brand to the family-rooted GR10K and the mystical Ascend Beyond, these labels are carving out their own space on the big stage while staying true to their unique DNA.

Redefining Italian Menswear: Emerging Designers Bring a New Perspective to Milan Fashion Week

Diomene: Damir Doma's Slow Fashion Pursuit

After a period of reflection during the pandemic, fashion designer Damir Doma has emerged with a new creative direction for his label Diomene. Seeking a slower pace and a more authentic approach, Doma has shifted away from the pressures of rapid growth and instead focused on building a more intimate, personal brand.Diomene, which was introduced in 2021 and is produced under license in Italy's Veneto region, represents Doma's desire to create timeless, understated pieces that evoke a sense of spirituality and purity. The spring 2025 collection features soft, deconstructed tailoring with a crafty, languid sensuality, including silk pajamas, linen sets, and workwear-inspired jackets. Doma's aim is to move away from the frenetic pace of the fashion system and instead offer a more considered, thoughtful approach to design.The presentation of the Diomene collection will be a reflection of this ethos, with a focus on intimate, immersive experiences for guests. The brand will showcase its latest offerings in its Milan studio, accompanied by floor-to-ceiling prints, a cocktail area, and a limited-edition magazine distribution.

GR10K: Blending Workwear Expertise with Contemporary Design

GR10K, founded in 2019 by Anna Grassi, is a brand that draws inspiration from her family's deep-rooted expertise in workwear. Grassi, who describes herself as a "factory girl," has leveraged her access to the Grassi company's extensive archives to reinvent traditional workwear into contemporary clothing.Despite her lack of formal fashion training, Grassi has assembled a team of collaborators, including an architect and a designer, to help bring her vision to life. The brand's spring 2025 collection, which will be presented at Milan Fashion Week for the first time, pays homage to American Midwestern workers' uniforms, reinterpreting classic silhouettes through the lens of technical and performance-driven fabrics.GR10K's ethos is rooted in the beauty and simplicity of well-crafted garments, with a focus on processes and materials. The brand's offerings include collaborations with a Japanese eyewear brand and an organization committed to preserving biodiversity, as well as a new iteration of its cobranded footwear with Salomon.The brand's presentation at the San Fedele Auditorium will feature a unique four-hour performance by a group of string instrument musicians wearing the collection, further emphasizing GR10K's commitment to blending craftsmanship, functionality, and artistic expression.

Ascend Beyond: Crafting Mystical Menswear with a Performance Edge

Ascend Beyond, the brainchild of Emanuele Abbondanza, is a brand that reflects the multifaceted interests and experiences of its young founder. Abbondanza, a Millennial born in 1996, draws inspiration from his Sardinian heritage, his passion for fashion, and his love of outdoor activities and mindfulness.The brand's spring 2025 collection, titled "I Wasn't There (or Was I?)," showcases Abbondanza's distinctive design approach, which blends performance and workwear elements with a touch of mysticism. The collection features a range of garments, including workwear-inspired jackets made from a thick, rough hemp and linen textile, as well as sartorial pleated pants in a technical fabric.Abbondanza's attention to detail is evident in the collection, with the use of vintage teaspoons as zip pullers and the incorporation of lace and eyelet fabrics, some of which are made from deadstock or upcycled materials. The presentation of the collection at Milan Fashion Week will include a bar area serving coffee and offering coffee ground fortune-telling sessions, as well as a listening room featuring the music that inspired the collection's genesis.Ascend Beyond's offerings, which range from 70 euros for jerseys to over 400 euros for outerwear, are currently available through the brand's e-commerce platform, showcasing Abbondanza's commitment to building a unique and authentic menswear label that reflects his personal passions and heritage.